2025 Sim Racing Steering Wheel Guide For Beginners


Getting your first sim racing steering wheel can be quite complicated with how many alternatives there are - so here is our beginners guide to sim racing wheels to help you out!

Your first racing wheel is always something special, like your first game console or your first car. If you've only ever played racing games with a gamepad, you finally get a realistic steering feel, and you're much more connected to the car - you are finally driving!

Most people will probably make the leap into Sim Racing through titles like the EA F1 series, Forza Motorsport, Gran Turismo or BeamNG, and one thing is for sure: it's worth it! The range of wheels is now highly diverse, and since last year, there have been many new entry-level and mid-range options, even several direct-drive wheels and bundles available for under $500. In this guide, we will give you an overview of some of your options and share our experiences and recommendations.

MOZA R3.jpg

MOZA Racing R3 bundle in action.

We are going to break down the options by price range because even as a beginner, you can theoretically spend $1000 or more on mid-range wheels and pedals - it's always a question of your own budget, of course. And a critical piece of information up front: none of the manufacturers mentioned below are sponsoring this guide. These are my personal recommendations and experiences I’d like to share from the last 15 years of Sim Racing.

My journey started in a very typical way: I was into the Colin McRae games, which I played with a keyboard or gamepad until DiRT 3. Then came F1 2010, and Logitech released the G27 - it was time for my first wheel! Then came the Thrustmaster TX, the T300 RS and the TS-XW - all devices that I had a lot of fun with in the 2010s, and these never let me down. Even today, these two manufacturers - Thrustmaster and Logitech - are still a good place for beginners to start.

T300RS Mechanical explosion diagram.jpg

Thrustmaster T300RS mechanical explosion diagram. Image: Thrustmaster

$200 or less​

Logitech G29 & G920​

With that in mind, we move into the $200 category. If you are on a tight budget and not sure if a wheel is for you, then the second-hand market is a good place to start. Ideally, if you sell your wheel after a month, you won't lose any money, as typical examples, such as the used Logitech G29, are stable in price. You can get them for under $200, and they come with pedals and even a clutch - and they are compatible with PCs, PlayStation 4 & 5! For Xbox and Forza drivers, there is the G920 variant.

Thrustmaster Ferrari 458, T80 & T128​

If you want to buy something new, Thrustmaster has some very reasonably priced sets on offer. The Ferrari 458, T80 or T128 could be the way to go, depending on the platform you want to race on, but you have to be aware that in this price range, most products have more of a toy appeal, and these entry-level gear and belt driven wheels do not generate much force, and that the 458 and T80 do not feature Force Feedback.

Thrustmaster 458.png

A classic Thrustmaster Ferrari 458 wheel bundle. Image: Thrustmaster

However, these options are perfectly adequate, especially if you are buying this for your kids - it is undoubtedly better than no steering wheel at all. On the downside, the noise level is higher than that of more modern direct-drive steering wheels. This is something to bear in mind if you are using it in the living room.

All the pedal sets that come with these affordable wheels are very soft, brittle and designed to work under the desk without a fixed screw connection. They are simply not excellent quality. On a positive note, as these wheels all have a large user base, you can quickly find help and suitable settings for the various games and simulators.


There is another way to try out different equipment. Sim Racing exhibitions! Sim Formula Europe will take place in Maastricht in the Netherlands next week from the 16th to the 19th of January. We will be there with 3 rigs. There will be lots of brands on site, and you will be able to try out their equipment. It's going to be a fun few days with new announcements, tournaments and racing action. Come and talk to us! The Interclassics Classic Car Show will also take place at the same time. Use this link for tickets and information.

Up To $600​

MOZA Racing R3 Bundle​

If you have up to $500-600 to spend, the entry-level range of direct-drive wheels, which have finally overtaken belt and gear-driven wheels in recent years, is open to you. The MOZA R3 Racing Wheel & Pedals Bundle for the PC is probably the cheapest way to get started. For just under $300, you get everything you need for racing: a tiny 3.9Nm peak torque wheel with a 280mm diameter ES wheel, including solid steel hall sensor pedals, and a table clamp included as well!

R3 Driving.png

MOZA Racing R3 bundle

The version that runs on the Xbox is about $100 more expensive. In my opinion, this is the best deal for between $300 and $500 as you have great options to upgrade your pedals and wheel thanks to the MOZA ecosystem - the latter as long as you are on a PC, as the Xbox compatibility comes through the ESX steering wheel. The MOZA Quick Release System is also simple and solid.

R3 Breakdown.png

MOZA Racing R3 mechanical explosion diagram

MOZA Racing R5 Bundle, Cammus C5 & PXN V12 Lite​

A small personal recommendation: If you don't need the Xbox compatibility and can save a bit more, go straight for the MOZA R5 bundle. The 5.5Nm is already noticeable in comparison, and this is very often on sale, so it just makes it into our second price category. The Cammus C5 and the PXN V12 Lite, both of which have videos on our YouTube channel, are also worth considering.

However, you will have to import them and pay high shipping and customs fees depending on where you live. According to the website, Cammus won't be able to deliver again until February or March, and it hasn't been easy to get hold of an available PXN V12 Lite over the past few weeks. The PXN is basically a top-of-the-range package and offers even more than the R5, namely 6 Nm peak torque, a clutch pedal and dual clutches on the steering wheel.

PXN V12 Lite.jpg

PXN V12 wheelbase bundle

Thrustmaster T598​

If you are on the PlayStation, Thrustmaster has recently come up with a really attractive deal - the T598 offers new Direct Axial Drive technology and a whopping 5Nm of constant torque for $500. Our review showed that not everything is perfect yet, but the first firmware and software updates are pointing in the right direction, and I really liked the pedals, considering they are basic hall sensor units. We can make a recommendation here, but please also let us know about your experiences with delivery times and customer service in the comments below.

Thrustmaster T598.jpg

Thrustmaster's new T598

Fanatec CSL DD Ready 2 Race Bundles​

Fanatec still has a very strong starter kit. The 5 Nm CSL DD is available in Ready2Race bundles with different wheel types, so you should keep your eyes open for good deals here, too. The Fanatec ecosystem is also very extensive, and it is the only wheelbase that can be upgraded to 8Nm with a power supply upgrade, the Boost Kit. But now we're leaving the $500 mark, let's see how far you can go with around $800!

Fanatec + GT Wheel.jpg

Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Extreme bundle

Up to $800​

Turtle Beach VelocityOne​

As we move into the mid-range, it gets harder to find complete packages. Turtle Beach launched the VelocityOne last year, which comes with loadcell pedals, a dashboard display and even a button box. The 7.2Nm provides a bit more overhead than the entry-level DDs, and the set is compatible with PC and Xbox.

Turtle Beach.jpg

Turtle Beach VelocityOne bundle

For PlayStation drivers and Gran Turismo fans, Fanatec's Gran Turismo DD Pro with 8 Nm is still a great package; for the $800, you should be able to enjoy the bundle for a very long time and in direct comparison to the T598 mentioned earlier, the extra $300 is worth it in my opinion if you have the budget.

MOZA Racing R9 Bundles​

MOZA offers more fine-tuning potential, PC focus, and more Sim Racing appeal with their R9 bundles; my recommendation here would be the KS Wheel. However, pedals are already missing, and 9Nm is a range that is no longer particularly useful with a desk clamp. You should also upgrade your pedals before pushing into the 10Nm range. Load Cell is the keyword here. An all-time favourite of the community would be the CSL Elite V2 for around $300.

CSL Elite Pedals.jpg

CSL Elite Pedals V2. Image: Fanatec

We are slowly approaching wheelbases, which alone cost at least $600, and a proper sim rig is slowly becoming necessary. So, let's end with a little rundown on sets that cost more than $800!

$800 & Up​

Thrustmaster T818​

Our two manufacturers from the very beginning, Logitech and Thrustmaster, also have something on offer here. The latter sends the T818 into the fight. However, 10Nm for 650 dollars is not an unbeatable price, and the concept of unfiltered force feedback does not always lead to the best results. In my opinion, other wheelbases offer a better experience for similar money, such as the Simagic Alpha Mini, the Logitech PRO Racing Wheel, MOZA R12, Fanatec ClubSport DD or Asetek La Prima.

SImagic GT Neo.jpg

Simagic Alpha Mini with a GT Neo

Simagic Alpha Mini, Logitech PRO Racing Wheel, MOZA R12, Fanatec ClubSport DD & Asetek La Prima

These are all steering wheels in the 10-12Nm range, and this already makes it possible to reproduce realistic steering forces, depending on which car or motorsport class you drive. I'm going to give you 4 combinations from 4 manufacturers that I personally think are a great deal.

  • The Simagic Alpha Mini with a GT Neo and P1000 pedals (Pictured above).
  • The Asetek La Prima bundle.
  • Fanatec ClubSport DD F1 Esports V2 bundle with CSL Elite V2 pedals.
  • MOZA R12 with KS Wheel and CRP 2 Load Cell pedals.

Of course, you can swap the Formula-shaped wheels for round ones if you prefer drifting or rallying. Basically, I recommend having at least 2 types of wheels in the house: one for prototypes, GT and formula cars and one for street and rally cars.

La-Prima-bundle-1.png

Asetek La Prima Bundle. Image: Asetek Simsports

We recently got the Logitech Pro Racing Wheel, and I was pleasantly surprised by it. In terms of setup, software, and settings, it's a bit more beginner-friendly than most and gives an excellent feel to every simulation out of the box. The Logitech is also available for Xbox and PlayStation; just make sure you get the correct version for your platform of choice!

Logitech PRO.jpg

Xbox-compatible Logitech Pro Racing Wheel bundle.

Fanatec DD+​

If consoles are important to you, Fanatec is also worth a look. The 15Nm DD+ was my daily driver for most of last year, and after switching to the Simagic Alpha U, which is otherwise the best wheelbase I've ever had, I miss being able to play Gran Turismo 7 on the rig at home.

An honourable mention and a manufacturer that I think could shake up the market this year is Conspit. We are currently testing the Ares wheelbase as well as their steering wheels and pedals. We recently gave an overview at the Sim Racing Expo.

CPP Lite Pedals.jpg

Conspit CPP-Lite pedals.

Tips & Tricks To Start​

For this piece, we will leave aside the high-end range with hydraulic pedals and active pedals or wheelbases from Simucube with more than 20 Nm. Instead, I'd like to give you an important tip when setting up your new wheel base. Avoid setting the force feedback to 100% everywhere from the start. This is one of the biggest mistakes beginners make.

The weaker direct drive wheelbases are especially prone to clipping, which means you lose valuable effects and information. As a rule of thumb, start with 50% in-game and 80% in the driver, and then feel your way around. Hope this helps!

If you are interested in purchasing any of these deals and you like what we do here at OverTake, please consider using our MOZA, Fanatec, Asetek Sim Sports, and Apex Sim Racing affiliate links. We make a small commission on each sale made using this link, without any extra costs for you. With that, you can support your favourite sim racing community so that we can keep hosting all the downloads you need and post all the news, reviews, features, and more.

I am really looking forward to your comments and experiences. What was your first racing wheel, what game introduced you to Sim Racing and how regularly do you race? Let us know in the comments down below!
About author
Michel Wolk
- Joined the OverTake crew in April 2022
- Sim Racing & content creation since 2012
- Petrolhead, Rally fan, Subie driver, Nordschleife addict, Poké Maniac, Gamer, 90's kid

Current Rig Setup:
- Sim-Lab P1X Pro Cockpit
- 3x ASUS TUF Gaming VG32VQR
- RTX 4080, AMD 5800X3D, 32GB RAM
- Simagic Alpha Ultimate
- Simucube ActivePedal Pro Brake
- Sim-Lab XP1 Throttle
- Moza HBP Handbrake

Comments

No-FFB wheels are subpar to a gamepad with rumble imho.

As for non-DD wheelbases. I'd go 2nd hand all day. Anything below that is overpriced new. And most are minor redesigns of hardware we've had for decades. (I've had a lot of fun on my non-DD wheelbases and think they're a perfectly good entry into this hobby)
 
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OverTake
Premium
Daytona 25 - 2.4hr 3rd place LMDh

Thrustmaster Ferrari 458, T80 do not have force feedback! Atricle implies they do please fix that!​

If am not wrong, these wheels have no FFB - yes. But they have a center force, and I was talking about force, not FFB in that section. Just to be correct about the details :)
 
Premium
If am not wrong, these wheels have no FFB - yes. But they have a center force, and I was talking about force, not FFB in that section. Just to be correct about the details :)

these entry-level gear and belt driven wheels do not generate much force - or any at all, in the case of the 458 and T80.

I did add that in after the fact, just clarified it a bit, though!

I get it guys - you've said that they don't have FFB. but my problem here is that it's only mentioned towards the end of the section, meaning people who don't read thoroughly, and we're all guilty of that from time to time, might end up buying these thinking they are FFB wheels.

Given that the audience here has little or no interest in non FFB wheelbases then I don't think these models are relevant for inclusion into this article. Alternatively you could put them in their own section of "Kid friendly non FFB wheels" to enable clarity for everybody.
 
My short wheels story:

1 : 90´s Some Commodore AMIGA wheel. Cheap, forceless piece of plastic which broke apart quickly

2: early 2000s, some Thrusmaster wheel don´t know anymore wich one, with force feedback! Which i never set up, just used as it was ought lol

3. Logitech G25: Got it about 2007 or 2008? - was state of the Art at this time. Rock solid construction (never had an issue). Decent ffb for these times. Still in my cellar.

4. Thrustmaster T300rs alcantara ed. - got it 2018. Worthy upgrade to the good old G25. Maybe best belt-driven wheel out there? Still a good and solid wheel, which every newcomer will have fun with. Or experienced racers which just don´t ned more.
Used until end 2023. Borrowed to a friend, who become simracer after that :)

5. current Fanatec CSL DD 8Nm - For my purposes as a singleplayer more than enough. Another very good upgrade and a great value for the money.
 
My setup with 1 buttkicker and the LogiDD wheel with TrueForce on (its a buttkicker on your wheel, full stop) and a single 49" ultrawide, I am significantly more immersed then a cheaper wheel with no haptics and VR.

Point is, dont sleep on the Logitech unit and when implemented correctly (ACC for example), because it has enough force to hurt you and haptics are special. Its the closest ive ever felt to the feeling I get riding my motorcycle quickly off-road.
 
If am not wrong, these wheels have no FFB - yes. But they have a center force, and I was talking about force, not FFB in that section. Just to be correct about the details :)
Keep in your mind that for the starters this is a bit confusing and complex. The FFB/rumble mistake will now easily occur to the newbie’s who are orientating here, to buy their first wheel.
Think real FFB is essential.
 
OverTake
Premium
Daytona 25 - 2.4hr 3rd place LMDh
Keep in your mind that for the starters this is a bit confusing and complex. The FFB/rumble mistake will now easily occur to the newbie’s who are orientating here, to buy their first wheel.
Think real FFB is essential.
I agree, but they way we adjusted that section now should be clear enoug. I also state in the video, that these have a toy appeal and are more inteded for kids.
 
Moderator
Premium
meaning people who don't read thoroughly, and we're all guilty of that from time to time
While I don't disagree with your point, I still think before someone posts a criticism they make an effort to make sure they're correct.
I see more and more posts where replies have misread or missed the point or position taken.
Anyway on topic, in my loft I still have a Fanatec PS2 wheel, an old Sidewinder plus a Saitek r440. I gave away my driving force pro and Momo ones.
My old system still has my working G25 bought Christmas 2006 so I can testify to it's longevity and my new one has the Fanatec csl 8nm.
 
If you can handle the risk and reward of going secondhand a used last gen Thrustmaster isn't a bad call either- the T300 RSGT in particular can be had for around 200-250 or less if you play your cards right and a T150/TMX Pro (just keep to anything with the T3PA pedals basically) comes for even cheaper. That said though I'd argue that a Moza R3/R5 might be a better long term deal given even low torque DD wheels will always have a clarity edge over their belt/gear driven peers
 
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Premium
Waaaayyy back I got a few minute (small) wheels, 'Trust' I think one of them was then I think Wingman, then more Trust crap then I got a G29, just before two years old it got busted so got a warranty replacement... I've been confused ever since as to what I'm going to replace it with... so
Thank you Michel Wolk for the article on wheels for noobs... yup that's me.

Unless someone here can tell me otherwise I feel the the Moza 5 bundle* (5.5nm) with the extra pedal (clutch) will be the way for me to go, though the pedals look very smooth (slippery) for sock drivers 🤔
I'm assuming that a gearstick will be extra, and I'll need to be able to change the wheel to a classic 50/60's sports car one... and also I guess I'll need to locate one of those too, but that will be for later but is a stipulation.

*seemingly not too tough for a desktop and won't be lost in a rig of sorts should I find the room.
 
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Very well done guide :)

Imo this would do it too:

1. Do not listen to people that recomend Logitech

2. Do not buy Logitech

3. Do not buy anything using old tech


:D
 
You guys should do an article about pedals, because you can be fast even with a dirt second hand cheap steering wheel with no FFB, but the pedals make quite a lot more difference in driving consistently fast, but for some reason the steering wheels and wheelbases get all the attention.
 
If am not wrong, these wheels have no FFB - yes. But they have a center force, and I was talking about force, not FFB in that section. Just to be correct about the details :)
Eh that explanation is iffy at best but we all make mistakes don't worry I wasn't criticizing your work just don't want somebody to make a mistake because of this unclear statement. And even if you were talking about the centering force the t80 and Ferrari wheels are not:
entry-level gear and belt driven wheels
I'm happy that you corrected this quickly it shows that you really care about making your articles a valuable ressource for the community.
 
Premium
You guys should do an article about pedals, because you can be fast even with a dirt second hand cheap steering wheel with no FFB, but the pedals make quite a lot more difference in driving consistently fast, but for some reason the steering wheels and wheelbases get all the attention.
Absolutely, I've asked for a full guide for all the the paraphernalia that goes into making a simrace desktop and or rig.
because I firmly believe kits/bundels (like the G29) sell more because in many cases the buyer just doesn't know what's what and just wants to have a go.
 
OverTake
Premium
Daytona 25 - 2.4hr 2nd place GT3
Absolutely, I've asked for a full guide for all the the paraphernalia that goes into making a simrace desktop and or rig.
because I firmly believe kits/bundels (like the G29) sell more because in many cases the buyer just doesn't know what's what and just wants to have a go.
I think that is still a general "issue" within the simracing space - things rarely work out of the box. No matter if Software or Hardware.

How often do we have to dive into wheelbase settings etc. to make a game feel "good". That can be a software adjustment as well as a hardware one.
And I agree, that opens space for someone like Logitech to sell products that need less of that.

As in the end, people have limited time (and knowledge). Some love, as part of their hobby, to research the right settings, way to build their rig etc. etc. while others want to just be on track, in the cra, and have fun. Which is also totally fine.
 
OverTake
Premium
I think that is still a general "issue" within the simracing space - things rarely work out of the box. No matter if Software or Hardware.

How often do we have to dive into wheelbase settings etc. to make a game feel "good". That can be a software adjustment as well as a hardware one.
And I agree, that opens space for someone like Logitech to sell products that need less of that.

As in the end, people have limited time (and knowledge). Some love, as part of their hobby, to research the right settings, way to build their rig etc. etc. while others want to just be on track, in the cra, and have fun. Which is also totally fine.
I agree. It's one of two big hurdles in the way of approachability, the other being cost, of course.

I don't think there are many (if any) plug-and-play experiences out there in sim racing, as most of them require some sort of tinkering with FFB settings. The question is whether or not that is even achievable with the myriad of different pieces of gear out there.
 

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